If you take good care of your wooden cutting board, it can last you a lifetime. Teak, which the Cutting Board is made of, is a hard, durable material. Each cutting board will create its unique patina due to the environmental conditions such as humidity, sun hours, UV and rain. The cutting board when delivered is treated with oil twice from Röshults. Cracks appear, often due to low humidity and UV rays. Please follow the maintenance instructions to reduce cracks. Do not keep the cover in contact with the wood surface during protection of the product as liquids will affect the surface through capillarity.
Only end grain is used in the cutting board, which means that the wooden fibres lay perpendicular against the cutting board’s surface. They complete each other so that the wood doesn’t bend. An advantage to using end grain is that the cutting board is self-healing. The fibers divide themselves when cut, and then heal again. A board made of ordinary wood is cheaper, but bends and gets scratched easier and needs therefore to be grinded more often. End grain sucks up more moisture compared to ordinary, flat laying wood, and it is therefore important to saturate the surface in oil more often.
- Oil your cutting board every 14 days by spreading a layer of oil with a paper towel. Use an ordinary, neutral, cooking oil. Let sit for a couple of minutes and then wipe off excess oil.
- After each use: Clean the cutting board with dish soap and warm water as soon as you are ready. Never drench it in water and do not flush water on it longer than necessary.
- Quick clean: Pour one part water and one part 12% white vinegar in a spray bottle. Spray the board and wipe clean with a paper towel.
- Scrub with coarse salt to remove stains.
- Store the cutting board dry.
- If cracks appear/prevention of cracks: Saturate the board with oil and let sit overnight, then wipe excess oil with a paper towel.
- It is possible to grind the board to obtain a new, clean surface after years of use.
Stainless steel is not completely maintenance free. it requires maintenance to preserve its finish. It needs to be cleaned for aesthetic considerations, and to preserve corrosion resistance. Any contamination of the surface by dirt or other material reduces the resistance. Some of our products are covered with a plastic foil. The foil protects during transportation. After installation, it shall be removed before using the product.
Stainless steel is easily cleaned by several different methods. It actually thrives with frequent cleaning, and, unlike some other materials, it is impossible to “wear out” stainless steel by excessive cleaning. Always wipe your product after use. Use mild soap and lukewarm water. To avoid gray coating on the surface, do not let water or other liquids dry into the stainless steel. When water contains mineral solids, which leave water spots, it is advisable to wipe the surface completely with dry towels.
- Sprinkle dry powdered detergent, such as washing
powder on the surface.
- Rub the powder gently on the surface with a damp sponge.
- Wash thoroughly with cold water.
- Wipe the surface dry with a dry soft cloth
Removal of lime coatings
Lime deposits caused by water evaporation on the surface can be removed with any of the following solutions: Vinegar, vinegar 10%, Diluted nitric acid (1/5 HNO3, 4/% water). During treatment with nitric acid you should have a good ventilation in the area. Otherwise, it’s the same handling regulations as for strong acids. After treatment with any of the above solutions, rinse the surface thoroughly with cold water and wipe it dry with a soft polishing cloth.
Removal of rust coatings
Rust coatings which have not been a longer time on the surface can normally be removed by using a mild scouring powder. Rub the dry scouring powder gently against the steel surface with a damp cloth, wash with cold water and wipe dry with a soft cloth. If rust coatings have been dry out for a long time on the stainless steel it usually occurs a certain discoloration from the corrosion-products in the surface. This results in discoloration after the rust has been removed as above. In such cases we recommend alternative brushing with dry nylon fiber brushes or rust removal with dilute nitric acid HNO3, diluted with 4 parts water. Rinsing and drying as above.
Coating Akzo nobel noir 2200 sablé YW360F
Finishes on our Garden Furniture are made with AkzoNobel’s Interpon D2525
technology. Interpon D2525 is an ultra durable powder coating, which meets
the demanding weathering requirements of the leading industry specifications
Qualicoat Class 2, GSB. Master, and AAMA 2604-05, as well as BS EN 12206.
Teak can be left outside year around, surviving even the most extreme weather conditions.
It is recommended to wipe off any stain with water and detergent, including normal dirt, stain and spores with mold/fungal or other moldy/fungal residue. For stubborn stains, use a soft-bristled scrubber (such as kitchen/pot scrubber). Please do not cover your furniture with plastic or any similar material. This will prevent natural airflow, which will cause the timber to sweat and increase humidity. Mold may appear as a result. Do not leave your teak furniture in puddles of water or on wet ground. Cover your teak furniture during the winter months or move indoors if in northern climates. Over time, untreated teak furniture which is exposed to the sun will develop a patina along with a silvery, grey color and wood grain may rise. This process does not harm the strength or quality of the wood. We deliver our products untreated, letting the client decide, however we recommend to use a sealer for keeping the furniture as close as possible to its original shape. You can consult your local paint store if the original colour is preferred. Teak sealer is recommended to preserve the natural honey color. Teak sealer contains UV protection to keep the sun from graying the furniture as well as a fungicide to prevent the growth of mold and mildew on the surface of your furniture. Sealer is not the same as varnish. It is meant to preserve the color of the wood and is breathable, letting the natural oils escape without bubbling or peeling like varnish. Sealers and preservatives serve both as protectants and stains. Generally, the darker the stain, the more sun protection it provides, and the less often it needs to be reapplied. Applying the preservative is straightforward. On the first application, the wood should be allowed to stand in the sun for a week or two to allow the wood grain to open. A coat of teak sealer should be sprayed on and rubbed in. Two coats should be applied in this manner. The area underneath the furniture should be protected with a drop cloth or newsprint as most sealers will stain concrete. After the first application, teak sealer should be reapplied every year by cleaning the wood with mild detergent and water and spraying and rubbing in a coat only on the surfaces that get sun. After the furniture is sealed, very little care is needed to preserve the finish. Occasional washing with soap and water will remove normal soil. Oils from foods, wine, coffee and some condiments will penetrate the sealer and may leave a stain. To avoid this, a teak clear coat can be applied to the surface to improve stain resistance. It is important to place your furniture in a dry place with good air ventilation. Do not store your furniture near extreme temperature such as a heater. This may cause the timber to shrink/expand and make the joints crack. Do not expose teak to extreme hot or cold temperatures, such as a hot saucepan/flame or dry ice. This will leave a mark on the furniture. Always use placemats to protect the surface.
Please note, once you stain your teak, you cannot return to the natural golden brown or weathered silver-grey color without sanding off the stain. Stain is intended to be permanent. If you choose to stain your furniture after it has turned silver-grey, you must first sand if before applying stain. Attention: Teak can react to its premier contact with moisture by grain rising. This is solved by using a fine-grained sandpaper.
CUSHIONS / TEXTILE
Some smart tips and practical advice
- As consistently as possible, clean your fabric on monthly basis: spraying with a hose or rubbing with a soft brush (such as one used on clothing) will eliminate most dirt. This will prevent the need for premature deep cleaning (generally recommended every 2 to 3 years depending on the environment).
- Before folding or putting away your cover, make sure it is completely dry and clean to avoid the formation of mold while in storage.
- Avoid cooking under your cover because smoke, gas fumes and steam from cooking contain micro-nutrients that can promote the formation and development of mold on the fabric.
- Make sure to always keep your cover well ventilated, insufficient ventilation for evacuating accumulated interior moisture will encourage the development of mold (favourable threshold; over 65% humidity). Above all, do not put a totally air-tight PVC tarpaulin over your cover or obstruct lateral ventilation screens that maintain proper ventilation.
- Do not use, sovents, detergents or abrasives, or clean your Sunbrella® fabric with a high pressure machine or a washing machine.
- If your Sunbrella® fabric has a few wrinkles, you can iron it, but only using the synthetic/delicate fabric setting (do not use any steam whatsover).
Why should you take good care of your fabric?
One of the best ways to keep your Sunbrella® fabric in perfect condition and postpone the need for deep cleaning for as long as possible to give your fabric a quick hosing or brushing (with a soft fabric brush) on a monthly basis. This will eliminate most surface dirt before it penetrates deep into the fabric.
Mold: Causes and solutions
In recent years, many factors have contributed to the development of mold on outdoor covers:
- Increased air pollution.
- Increased restrictions on the use of certain chemicals in fabric tratments
(fungicides - environmental standards).
Thanks to the rot-proof synthetic fibres used to make Sunbrella® fabrics, bothersome mold is much less likely to develop. However, mold can develop if the fabric is not well cared for. The following four elements are required for mold to develop: humidity, heat, spores and nutrients. By eliminating any one of these 4 elements, the development of mold can be avoided.
What is the best way to take care of your fabric?
Quick basic cleaning:
- Brush the fabric to remove surface dirt.
- Spray the fabric with cold water.
- Prepare a mixture of mild soap and lukewarm water.
- Rub the mixture onto the fabric with a soft brush.
- Allow the mixture to act on the fabric.
- Rinse throughly with clean water until the cleaning solution is completely removed.
- Allow the fabric to dry in the open air.
More intensive cleaning to get rid of mold:
- Prepare a solution with 1/10 bleach, 2/10 soap, 7/10 water.
- Scrub the fabric wit the solution and a soft brush
- Allow the sollution to act for 15 minutes
- Remove the solution using a sponge or a clean towel.
- Rinse throughly with clean water
- Allow the fabric to dy in the open air.
- Re-treatment of fabric for water and stain resistance will be necessary.
Other fabrics that are not Sunbrella® may not be able to withstand bleach. Make sure to protect them. To protect the environment, when using blech, make sure to collect the dirty water which could be harmful to plants or animals.
Which products are best for maintaining your fabric?
Outdoor fabrics receive a carbon-fluoride waterproofing treatment during the manufacturing process which makes them more resistant to moisture and various types of dirt (dust, plant praticles, oily deposits, etc.) and limits the development of mold. Over time, the initial treatment can become less effective. Thats why it ́s important to clean and trat your outdoor fabric on a regular basis. Consistent maintenance will keep your fabric in excellent condition and make it last much longer. The act of cleaning reduces fabrics beading effect. After each cleaning, apply fabric water-proofing to restore your fabrics water-proof properties and protect against dirt and stains.